Tailored Classic or Slim fit suits. What’s best for you?

Lets have a look at the cut of a suit.  First I will take you through the most influential decades in suit design.

Think back to the 20’s with big double breasted, zoot suits (wow they are extreme!).  My point is the fit was baggy.  Suits did change style through the years, but the big changes came in the 1960’s

This developed in the 70’s when the thigh went tight, and the flared bottoms got bigger.  Jackets were still fairly standard fit.  some got longer, and big pockets on both sides of the chest.

The 80’s got more serious. suits were conservative, classic cut, and this continued into the 90’s and even the 2000’s. In the early days, there were plenty of double breasted suits about, but by 2010, it had become almost impossible to buy one, unless you knew a good tailor who would make it for you.

20 years ago when we first started selling suits, we only sold one fit. Generally that had big padded shoulders, plenty of space for your tummy (if you had one), arms that covered your shirt,  pleated trousers so that you could sit in comfort, and plenty of fabric in the thigh area.The Nehru and double breasted were popular, but in all styles, the fit was comfortable.

Compare that with now, where a younger mans’ suit is considered by the men of that generation to be 2 sizes too small! And that is why we now have 3 fits:

Classic          Tailored               and  Slim.

The classic is a comfortable fit. It is a roomy, and gives the wearer the ability to move easily without restriction. If you carry an extra few pounds, it helps you disguise it, and if you spend hours in a car, you will appreciate the looser fit trouser.

The Tailored is a more modern cut of the classic. A little of the extra fabric on the arm, the thighs and the waist is taken in. I say extra, because each size is cleverly designed to fit a gentleman of that chest size and height. We know for example that if you are a size 58 chest, you have a little extra on your tummy, and the jacket and trousers are styled to fit you. So the extra, is the extra 2″ on the tummy that is designed as extra room on the classic.

The slim fit is a size slimmer again, as the name suggests.  If we look at the trouser bottoms, then I think this tells the story very well.  A classic will generally be 17″ bottoms, the tailored is a 16″ bottom, and the slim fit is 15″ bottoms. (All measured round the circumference of the trouser). We recommend only.

To find our latest selection go to our Mens Suits page and on the Left hand side look down for fit”.  It could not be simpler.

 

 

Choosing a Suit for the Larger Man

Chances are that as a big-boned man you’ve been subjected to all sorts of ‘miraculous’ advice over the years as to how to dress, but so often there are conflicting ideas and confusing contradictions. When it comes to choosing large mens suits whether that is for those of us who have a beer belly, broad shoulders, large behinds or who are just plain BIG, fortunately there are some very useful tips that will hopefully help to remove the shroud of mystery from the whole process.

Firstly a little debunk. The whole notion of ‘dressing well’ simply involves presenting yourself in a way that is most flattering to the body you possess without distorting or altering the body in any way. So forget any ‘wonder products’ that claim to hold everything in – the chances are that these will not do you any good and that they will fail, one way or another.

The fit

The fit of a suit is almost certainly the most important factor for everyone, but is doubly important for larger men. Any bulges, wrinkles, sagging sleeves and unwanted material excess is going to give you a sloppy, undefined outline, which draws more attention to your size. Baggy clothes do not hide a less than svelte physique, rather they highlight it. It is one of life’s great discoveries! In addition, the better the fit, the more comfortable the suit and this all helps boost your confidence when wearing it.

Keep it simple

You’re already owner of an imposing frame, which is statement enough. Larger men could do well to live by the rule of opting for simple, solid colour designs for their suits – in other words – hold the patterns and if it’s busy, then ditch it.

Join the dark side

Follow the Emperor’s advice and go dark. This is not only a very sound piece of advice for a larger man, as lighter colours definitely make any extra pounds show, but it is also a very easy piece of advice to follow, as there are so many great dark suits to choose from. Don’t forget that this advice also applies to a degree, to the shirt underneath the suit. A mid-blue shirt is a good solid option and pairs well with dark blue or dark grey suits in particular.

Be wise, accessorize!

Let’s be honest, every suit-wearer could do with adding a bit of pizazz with some well-chosen accessories. Braces can look incredibly good when worn properly, especially on the larger man. There are some great vintage braces around, but remember that you’ll need those buttons on the inside of the trousers to wear them. Pocket watches are really in vogue at the moment and can look very fetching. Remember that the chain needs to go from the second or third button from the bottom, hang down a little then go back up into the pocket just above your hip. Don’t go overboard with accessories, it’s far better to splash out on one or two exceptional items than to opt for a whole range of different items.

New Prince of Wales Check suit

New Prince of Wales Check Suit:

It’s not everyday that a suit as gorgeous as this one comes on the market so act quickly because the stock will not be around for long.  In fact this was available in a navy, and all of the stock has gone! 
The Skopes Aintree is a Prince of Wales tailored fit 3 piece mens suit with the attention to detail as ever – exceptional.
The smart horn buttons the stylish ticket pocket make this Skopes suit one that you really should want to own.

You can see from the pictures what we mean by tailored:

  • The trousers are shaped to your leg.
  • The arms will match the contour of your muscles.
  • The cut round the chest shoulders and waist if for a snug fit.
And when it comes to versatility, the elegant lapel on the waistcoat means that this suit can comfortably be worn as a two-piece either with a jacket or a waistcoat and still look dashing. The suit is also available in plus sizes. Indeed the 4 button waistcoat is as unusual as it is stylish, and goes as well with jeans as it does this suit.