Glossary of terms

French Bearer

The french bearer is a special button behind the fly of plain fronted trousers. It helps hold the front of the trouser flat, so making them look smarter. Click here for the trousers we sell that have a french bearer.

Worsted Wool

Worsted wool is wool that has been specially spun.  Traditionally it means that the wool has straight long fine fibres. The term "worsted" is often applied to any yarn spun from fibres three inches in length or longer that have been carded or combed, and spun, not just wool.   for many years the only people who could make wool fabric properly were the British, as many other suppliers struggled to make the fabric shrink resistant.  Now however, as others have developed their skills, more manufacturers can make a quality wool.  You still have to be careful what you buy however, it is not a universal skill.

Super 100's and Super 120's

 Super 100's and Super 120's define the weight of the fabric, but not necessarily the quality.  It is true to say however that the higher this number is the finer the fabric.  The scale can go all the way to 200's, but this is very rare indeed, and does it make for a better suit? Well, there lies the rub, as it certainly offers a nicer handle, but it is also more delicate, and is likely to get  snagged more easily. We sell up to a super 120's, and that is nice indeed.

Merino Wool

Merino wool is wool from an breed once taken from Spain to Australia, where all the best wool is made. The Australians have developed this industry to a point where the wool from every sheep is graded, the best coming from the soft underside (It is likely this is where Super 200's wool comes from).  It is graded by thickness, a 100's grade must be finer than 18.5 microns.

Columbia Stitch Trim

The Columbia stitch trim is inside the jacket - where the lining is sewn the stitches are shown just to give a better finish and a bit of detail around the edge.

Half Canvas Construction

The half canvas construction is a superior quality of inner lining in the upper half of the suit jackets, it's not visible it is underneath the lining to give a firmer finish.

Lapel

The Lapel is the folded collar at the front of a jacket or coat, and is mostly found on formal clothing like suits. The three main types are Notched - where the lapel is sewn to the collar at an angle creating a step. Peaked - Where the lapel goes out to a point when the lapel meets the collar. Shawl - A simple lapel with no joins or steps.

Pleated and Plain

Pleated suit trousers are where there is a tuck of material (pleat) at the top of each leg just underneath the waistband. Plain is when the trousers are without a pleat.

Shirt Collars

There are many different types of shirt collar. Standard - A normal shirt collar. Cutaway - When the shirt collar's points a shorted and angled out of the neck slightly. Wing Collar - Ideal for bow ties or cravats, this collar doesn't fold down and only has small points to just come over the top of the neckwear item. Mandarin dress collar shirt - This shirt collar is just like a normal shirt collar but without the folded section and points.

Shirt Fronts

There are some shirts that have patterns or pleats in the material on the front of them. A Full front pleated shirt has many pleats going down the front of the shirt. A Pleated shirt may have just a couple of lines of pleats. (These pleats can vary in size depending on brand and shirt). Marcella Fabric refers to a fabric with a weaving style pattern and effect. A Bib front shirt is where there is a section of the shirt that is plain or pleated (in the shape of a bib - not visable with a jacket on). And there is also plain - which has no pleats or patterns.

Stripes

There are a number of different types of pinstripe. Plain Pinstripe is where the stripe is a different colour to the material itself. Shadow Stripe is where the pinstripe is a different tone of colour to the material. Mens Pinstripe Trousers can either be worn with or without the jacket.

PTT What is it?

PTT is the abbreviation for polytrimethylene terephthalate. This yarn is similar to polyester but it has some unique characteristics. These include durability, softness, stretch and recovery properties and when it is used in garments it has the added benefit of being easy clean to reduce risk of staining. This has been used for Palmer to increase the performance of the fabric.